Category Archives: E-Mail Musings

Indiana

We left New Wilmington, Pennsylvania this morning at about 6:30 am and are
now coming up on Chicago. The day is overcast with occasional heavy
showers. It’s not too hot which is nice. Nina is driving (she prefers
driving) and I’m observing. We stay on I-80 so there isn’t much navigating
required. We are hoping to get about to Des Moines, Iowa tonight which, if
the construction and traffic through the Chicago area is kind, should be
easily possible. We’re 39 miles from the Illinois border and it’s about 1
p.m. It takes about three hours to get across Illinois — so Des Moines by
the dinner hour is possible! Pocatello, we’re on our way back home!

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Back In The USA

The Northwest flight from Amsterdam was a few minutes early! The plane was
at the gate at 6:11 pm and I was through Immigration, Customs, recheck
baggage, and Security by 6:35 pm. Astounding is a good description. On the
other hand, I’m tired. I’ve arrived at the departure gate for the Idaho
Falls and it’s about 2 am Belgium time. It would be nice to take a snooze.
This gate is as far as it is possible to be from where I arrived! It was a
very long walk. However, the long leg is finished. It’s good to be almost
home.

I ran the battery out on my laptop computer on the flight from Amsterdam
going through pictures and getting some of them ready to be put on the
website. It was fun going through them and a bit frustrating to see the
pictures I should have also taken.

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Once Again in Amsterdam

Northwest Flight 55 from Amsterdam to Minneapolis departs from gate E-20.
Just after passing through Passport Control is the main security
checkpoint. The metal detectors in Europe are set differently and are a
different type than in the US. That means for me I don’t have to take off
so much stuff when going through the machine. I like that a lot. Then there
is secondary screening at the gate. This one is much more like the US and
thus much more inconvenient. Today all went well and I’m ready to board,
which should start in about 10 minutes.

The flight will be about eight and a half hours long. Dinner service takes
about two hours after takeoff. Breakfast is served about an hour and a half
before landing. That leaves about five hours in the middle. I’ve got a good
book, Brave Companions by David McCullough. I started the book on the way
over and am about half way through. I also have some 900 pictures to decide
what to do with.

I left the hotel at 9 am and headed to the Amsterdam airport. I had some
problem navigating through Rotterdam and had to backtrack twice. A
navigator would be helpful. I need to look for a good GPS that works over
here. I’d like to be able to specify the route in advance rather than the
GPS deciding the route. The computer doesn’t always know to plan around
traffic choke points such as the Ring around Antwerp.

The departure area is filling up. I’m ready to load up, kick the tires,
light the fires, and get out of here!

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Last Night in Kortrijk

The workday is over and I’m back at my hotel. When I came in, the fellow atthe desk wanted to confirm that I would be checking out in the morning. I assured him that I was; he assured me that they needed the room. I’magreeable to this exchange.

I am now a bit suspicious of good parking places. The street in front of the door to the hotel had cars parked to a certain point and then the street was open from there to the corner. I parked and then looked aroundand found a temporary sign saying no parking starting today at 7 pm. The last car in the line was blocking the sign. So, I got back in the car andwent in search of a parking spot. Two times around the (quite large) block revealed no space, so I broadened my search and found a place a couple of blocks away. This one is for sure legal.

I am having dinner at the hotel. It’s a reasonably nice place and where I was put to sit was OK until the fellow at the next table lit up a cigar. My table was in the corner and all the smoke came there. Of course, most of the tables outside are occupied and the tables inside aren’t set for meals. Tough. I wasn’t going to sit in the cigar smoke. That’s one thing that theEuropeans have against them are the arrogant smokers. People put up with it over here. I will not. I’d like to have some very visible nose plugs to
convey the message that the smoker (and particularly the cigar smoker) isstinking up the place.

On the way from the office to the hotel I wanted to get four pictures and ended up with five. The first was in Oudenaarde. When I was at the American Cemetery in Waregem, there was a picture on the wall of the Visitors Centerof a monument to the Americans in Audenard. Beside the picture was a big map of the area and it was clear that Ardenard and Oudenaarde are the same place. I didn’t know where the monument was, but I figured it had to be inor near the main square. As I drove that direction, a sandstone structure off in a small park caught my eye. It was the monument and I’ve got thepicture.

Next was the nuclear power plant on the way. I got there, pulled off the road, and had a good view right out the driver side window. As I had the window down and was framing the shot, a couple of cars passed me. Thethought crossed my mind: “What if they think I’m a terrorist casing the plant?” I quickly took my pictures and drove off.

The next picture site turned out to be two places. There is a largeDutch-style windmill that I drove by each way between the hotel and work. Until this morning, there was a bunch of scaffolding on the front of thewindmill. Today it was gone! So I decided to get a picture on the way home. I pulled in, stopped, and took a number of pictures. In one of the shots I
also wanted to get the street sign in the picture. Then I realized what thestreet sign said: Twee Moellen Straat. Twee = Two. Moellen = mill. Straat = street. The Two Mill Street. So where was the other mill? I got in the car and continued down the side street. Sure enough, around on the other sideof the hill was another windmill, this one a big Flemish-style mill. Two
for the price of one!

Lastly, a sign on the road pointed off to the side to a British War Cemetery. It was on the way, so I went down the side street to a church and a church cemetery. Next to it was a military cemetery much like the onesI’d stopped at over the holiday and the weekend. I started to leave when I saw a headstone in the front row with a space to the side that looked quitedifferent. I went up to the headstone to see that it was inscribed in German: “Two unknown German soldiers”. I saw other headstones with German
inscriptions. They were kind of apart from the British headstones, at leastnear the front. Some had names, others had counts of unknowns, and others had both. I looked for the cemetery information plaque and learned thatthere were about 140 British soldiers and 57 German soldiers buried in the cemetery, all killed in the last days of the war.

What a thought. Of course in any conflict there is the last person to bekilled (and the last person to die from wounds). That person could be in this cemetery. The Great War came to a stop by agreement at eleven minutes after eleven a.m. on the eleventh day of the eleventh month of the year 1918. In some sectors, particularly on the western front, fighting
continued right up to the moment the white smoke flares went up which, along with the five cannon shots, marked the end of the war. What must it be like for the mother whose son might still be alive if the war had ended a minute or two earlier? Why did the war have to end at such a peculiar hour? It’s very curious to me and very sad for the mothers and fathers of these boys killed when the war was all but over.

The woman in charge of the restaurant isn’t having a good night. I started something, perhaps. Two other tables have asked to be reseated and the smoker is now on his third cigar.

Tomorrow I leave for Amsterdam and the flight home. It’s been a good tripand I’m ready to get back to my own bed!

Italian Prisoners of War

Italian Graves

I’m at the penultimate stop on this tour — the Belgian Cemetery of Houthulst. This cemetery contains the remains of Belgian soldiers from the great push in September 1918. The war had at most six weeks left, but no one knew that. The Germans had launched a major offensive in the summer of 1918 closing to within 30 miles of Paris. About this time the Americans arrived to strengthen the defenses and to begin an offensive push. The result was the German army began to retreat. The woods around this cemetery, about five miles from the Ijzer River and the front, was where the Germans had set their artillery as well as the Long Max, a railroad based huge gun that could fire missiles up to 40 miles. This area was one of the key objectives of the allied offensive in the north in order to silence the guns. That goal was achieved in early October 1918 by the Belgian Army under the direction of the French. Almost 1900 soldiers from that battle
are buried here.

Also buried here, at the back of the cemetery forming a backdrop, are 81
Italian soldiers who, as prisoners of war, died in a German labor camps in
the region.

It has stopped raining! On to the last stop — an old windmill, the Van
Couillie Mill.

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Werken and the New Zealand Pilot

New Zealand Pilot's Grave

The next stop on the tour didn’t have anything to do with World War One.
Werken has a historic Catholic Church with a “Way of the Cross” outside the
building around the outside of the cemetery and church grounds. The rain
had let up a bit, so I stopped as the Stations of the Cross are always
interesting. Do they stop with the crucifixion, or do they continue to the
resurrection? Unfortunately this one only had 7 of the prescribed 13
(though most stop at 12 and skip the resurrection), and like most Catholic
Churches and their Stations of the Cross, they stopped with the crucifixion.

But, two other things caught my eye! First was a small town memorial
erected in 1920 to the town’s sons who had died in the war. At the bottom
of the memorial were the words “Alles voor Vlaandren voor Christus” (All
for Flanders and for Christ). The letters AVV AVC (or AVV VVK) were often
arranged in a cross with the center V as the crux (see the Peace Gate picture at Diksmuide, or the view from the Peace Tower, for example). This phrase was
the rallying cry during The Great War for the Flemish separatists.

Secondly, at the entrance into the cemetery was the now-quite-recognizable
green War Graves Commission sign meaning that there are graves of British
soldiers in the cemetery. Since the guidebook I’m following had only to do
with World War One and made no mention of this cemetery, I looked for the
graves. I found a row of six graves, all airmen who died in 1941. One was
listed as being a New Zealand Air Force pilot. The rest looked to be bomber
crewmen. As I remember, the New Zealand Air Force provided fighter cover
for the British Lancaster bombers in the early days of the war. This fellow
died at age 26, someone’s son, buried a very long way from home.

It was only a brief respite. The rain has returned and it’s now really
coming down!

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Vladslo German War Cemetery

Grieving Parents

A light rain has begun to fall and the sky is dark enough that pictures are
difficult to take. I’ve upped the ISO rating on the camera to 800, which
puts a little more noise into the digital pictures. The light rain and
somewhat gloomy skies match my melancholy mood for the time being.

This cemetery is the resting spot for almost 26,000 of the some 135,000
Germans who died in the war. The highlight of the cemetery are statues
of a mother and father grieving for their fallen son. Kaethe Kollwitz, a
well-known Berlin artisan, carved these statues in the likeness of her and
her husband in memorial to their son Peter, who was killed in Flanders on
October 23rd 1914 . These are very moving pieces of art and are placed
looking over their son’s grave.

The grave markers in the cemetery list the names of up to 20 soldiers on each marker, unlike British, American, and Belgian cemeteries where each person has an individual headstone.

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Kruiskalsijke Mill in Leke

The New Mill

The guidebook says: “Miller Vandedberghe had to look on while his
livelihood, the Kruiskalsijde Mill built in 1871, was dynamited by the
Belgian Military Engineers on October 17th 1914.”

At that time, the windmill stood quite tall with huge sails to catch the
wind and turn the grindstones. It also would have made a good lookout and
observation tower over the Ijzer plain. After the war the mill was rebuilt
using diesel rather than wind power. It now stands empty — almost
abandoned.

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