Church in Mumbai

Chapel Area
Chapel Area

As readers know, Nina and I are members of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, commonly called The Mormons. Wherever we travel when Sunday comes around it’s Church day (unless, like last week, I was in the hospital undergoing angioplasty). Nothing got in the way today as we attended the Mumbai Branch of the New Delhi District of the India New Delhi Mission. The Branch meets in a newly constructed space configured for their needs. There is a main area with a rostrum at the front and space for about 100 chairs. The main area divides into three smaller areas by glass sliding partitions. In addition there are four classrooms.

Yesterday as we were driving back from Lonavala, Ty texted Heather from Branch Presidency Meeting (which is held via Skype since travel time is an important consideration) that they didn’t have speakers set up for Sunday and would Nina and I be willing to take ten minutes to bear our testimonies and talk about whatever? We agreed. We both spent quite a while last evening getting thoughts and scriptures together.

While many of the Branch members understand some English, even to those the Church vocabulary is new and difficult. There are others in the Branch that speak or understand no English. As a result, the standard practice at the Branch is after someone gives a speech in English, someone conversant in English and Hindi stands up and gives a summary of what was said. At the moment one of the missionaries has been given that summarization task.

Thinking of him, I wrote out an outline for my talk and printed a copy of the outline for him. That worked very well. Nina talked for just over eight minutes (ten minutes by the time the summary was delivered) and gave a lovely sermon on how the Lord loves his children all across the world, in every clime and nation. I talked about how the Church is the Lord’s Church, he knows what is needed to save his children, and that it is applicable around the world. Our talks seemed to be well received.

The Sunday School class was presented very well. The teacher conducted a lively and well-balanced discussion on the birth of our Savior. Priesthood was also well done. The instructor was well prepared and the discussion was very interesting. This was one of the better Church block of meetings we’ve attended in a while.

The Mumbai Branch baptized 23 people last year and hopes to baptize 40 people in 2015. The first one was baptized last Sunday and seems to be well received by the members of the Branch. There was one other American visiting (a student in a Masters program at MIT in Boston) and a French person from Strausborg, Germany (attending a conference in Mumbai).

Some pictures from Church today:

Climbing the Mountain — Where’s the Guru?

Kinheri Buddhist Caves
Kanheri Buddhist Caves

This afternoon we went to the Sanjay Ghandi National Park and spent some time climbing up and around a few of the 109 caves where Buddhist acharyas lived and worked. The Kanheri caves were constructed between the 1st century B.C. and the 11th century A.D. They are indeed at the top of a mountain! The monks would carve out a small cave for themselves where they would live and work and then expand one or more of them to be used for worship, study, or meditation. While it is possible to visit all 109 caves, I was quite satisfied (and very winded) after visiting about 10 of them. It was quite a climb on a relatively cool and nicely breezy Saturday afternoon.

However, the smog in and around central India is just horrendous. It has been getting worse day by day and blowing my nose is now a “don’t look at the result” experience. I’ve no idea when this situation will clear out, but it doesn’t look to be happening while we are here.

Yesterday we drove a couple of hours east of Mumbai into the mountains to Lonavala. Unfortunately, the smog took away most of the views which, on a fairly clear day, must be quite spectacular. We spent the night in a resort hotel in Lonavala before coming back to Mumbai this morning.

I have hundreds of pictures. Now I just need to decide how and what to do with them.

Tomorrow is a quiet day. We’ll go to Church in the morning and be here at the apartment the rest of the day. On Monday we fly to New Delhi where we’ll stay two nights. On Tuesday we’ll take the train to Agra and back to see the Taj Mahal. Wednesday afternoon we fly back to Mumbai. Thursday evening late we board a Delta flight to London and then on to Atlanta and our India adventure will finish. Way too soon!

We’re loving life!

Looking Around in Mumbai … (aka Belated Start to the Visit)

A Paradoxical Place
A Paradoxical Place

Spending three days in the hospital of the 14 days we’ll be here in Mumbai pretty much tossed the schedule our daughter Heather had planned for our visit. As a result, we spent the day today in different parts of Mumbai. We had lunch in Chili’s where the menu items were generally western, but didn’t have anything on the menu I recognized from our last visit to Chili’s a couple of weeks ago. However for my lunch, the chicken tenders were good, the “Peach Breezer” was a delicious drink, and the french fries were very tasty. Nina had a chicken salad with french fries and our daughter Heather had a chicken burger (I’m not sure you can buy a hamburger made with real beef anywhere in Mumbai). The total bill for the three of us was 2,286 Rupees ($36.40), very comparable to a lunch in the US.

Mumbai is definitely a place of enormous contrasts. For instance, the area where our daughter and her husband live is very modern. Their apartment is on the top floor of a 36 story high-rise in a circle with several other high-rises enclosing a nice garden. It’s a block away from the slums. All of the significant western brands are here including Häagen-Dazs, Louis Vinton, CitiBank, McDonalds (but there’s no beef), and Krispy Kreme and many, many more.

Auto-Rickshaw
Auto-Rickshaw

On the other hand, traffic is horrendous. I had a hard time looking out the windshield as our driver took us around the city today. For instance, there are 128,000 auto-rickshaws prowling the streets along with another 100,000 yellow and black taxi’s, all trying to coexist on the roads with close to a million private automobiles, public buses and what seems to be a gazillion motorcycles. Horns are mandatory and there is a distinct and unique horn-honking language of the road. We haven’t seen a single accident; I’m sure the legendary Indian passive/aggressive mannerisms were born on the roadways.

We visited four beautiful and elaborate Hindu temples, drove past a Zoroastrian Fire Temple, and a couple of Jain temples. We drove by the vegetable and flower markets (absolutely jammed with people … a good place to get a thorough body massage). We walked through a couple of shopping areas. It was all a lovely combination of scents, sounds, and colors. And here in Mumbai, the scents, sounds, and colors are never subdued!

I walked through an electronics section of a supermarket. Everything that I could buy in the US is available to buy here in India. The prices looked to be anywhere from 15% to 25% cheaper than in the US. There were a number of items for sale that I haven’t seen on sale in the US, all with Japanese names. The number of handsets, tablets, and phablets available for sale was amazing. I watched a demo for a few minutes on the curved ultra-HD tv from Samsung (a tidy $6,800). The detail and clarity of the picture was breathtaking.

Migrant Children School
Migrant Children School

We also spent an hour at a migrant worker children school. This school is one of several sponsored by an NGO called Mumbai Mobile Creches. These are children of migrant construction workers whose parents can’t afford to send them to public schools and who would get no education at all otherwise.

Our daughter volunteers at this school each week. When we got there she exclaimed, “Oh my! They now have doors on the rooms!” We spent the hour helping them make hand puppets. I thoroughly enjoyed our time there and the happiness and enthusiasm of the children. The tag line for the NGO is “Futures Under Construction” … a delicious play on words while emphasizing that, for these children in destitute families, the way out of poverty is certainly through education.

The four LDS missionaries here in Mumbai came over for dinner last evening. All four of them are Indian. One is the first person in his family to join the Church, two were baptized along with their parents, and one is a 2nd generation member. The discussion was very interesting. All of them are in their mid to late 20’s. Three of them are college graduates. One has an MBA in accounting and finance. Apparently it is normal to finish with schooling before going on a mission as the colleges and universities don’t have a provision for interrupting the education for a religious sabbatical. Taking a break between secondary school and college causes government funding for education to be lost.

The New Dehli Mission covers all of India and Pakistan. Most of the missionaries are natives. The Pakistani missionaries are not allowed to come to India and the Indian missionaries can’t serve in Pakistan for political reasons. Foreign missionaries can get a visa for about six to nine months and then must leave the country for at least 90 days before returning. Consequently, foreign missionaries (say from the United States) will serve up to half of their mission assignment to the India New Dehli mission in a mission in the Philippines. Also, the Indian and Pakistani missionaries go to the MTC in Manila, Philippines. They are there for two weeks, go to the Temple twice while they are there, and probably won’t be able to return to the Temple again until they are going to be sealed. The mission sees around 300 baptisms a year in India and twice that in Pakistan. There are about 4,000 members in total in both countries.

We’re having fun! I’ll get my pictures downloaded and put together a gallery in the next couple of days. I’ve managed to stay out of the hospital for 30 hours….

Hiranandani Gardens Hospital

I’ve been in Mumbai for 80 hours and spent most of that here in the Hiranandani Hospital. I’d been having what I thought was some heartburn for a couple of weeks. However, Friday morning about 3 am I woke up with pretty severe chest pain. The pain subsided somewhat and would go in cycles. We spent the day sightseeing in southern Mumbai. We visited the laundry (an unbelievable operation), the Gate of India, and the Taj Hotel (where a serious terrorist attack happened a few years ago). The pain continued throughout the day. After we got back to the apartment I told my daughter that, if I were in the states, I would go to the urgent care to see what was wrong.

We went to the emergency room. It didn’t take long for the cardiologist to tell me that what I was experiencing was severe angina and that I was headed up to the Cath Lab for an angiogram. That revealed several arterial blockages in my heart, a few of them with greater than 80% blockage. I was going to have angioplasty.

Sunday mid-day I was off once again to the Cath Lab for the procedure which took just over 90 minutes. Four stents were inserted, two of them in very tricky places. Two blockages remain, but they are less than 50% and empirical data suggests that a stent can cause more harm than good in that case. So, these will be managed through medication and lifestyle changes.

It’s now just after 7 am Tuesday morning in Mumbai. The cardiologist will be here about 9 am when I expect to be discharged. Then the rest of the paperwork will be required and by early afternoon I should be out of here with a renewed lease on life.

So, how is it being in a major hospital in Mumbai?

First, the care has been first class. Amazingly good care. The staff is well trained, very friendly, and very professional. The cardiologist and the surgeon were excellent. The facility is very modern. And the price is significantly less than it would have been back home.

Fortunately, I bought travel insurance when I arranged the flights. The reason at the time was that we had a very short connection in Amsterdam, one hour and ten minutes, and I thought we needed at least baggage insurance and missed flight insurance. While some of that may be needed on the way home, the $25,000 medical coverage is a godsend. The total price will be around $10,000 (when I’m finally discharged, the final price will be known), inclusive of hospital, laboratory, and doctors. (Update: total bill came to right at $14,000. It’s all on a credit card waiting on reimbursement from the travel insurance.)

The food, however, is very problematic. I haven’t been able to stomach much of it. Breakfast on Sunday was a strange porridge and two pieces of bread with some kind of jam in between. Lunch and dinner were mystery foods that I just couldn’t eat. I was able to ask for corn flakes and milk for breakfast on Monday, but it came with hot milk! I was hungry enough that it was all consumed.

In between breakfast and lunch comes some kind of a soup. I’ve been able to get down a couple of them and a couple of others were not palatable. Last night dinner was fried rice and finally something edible. Since I’m on a no-salt, no fat diet, I’m pretty sure that is why the food is so strange. Breakfast this morning, however, rocked. Corn flakes with cold milk and an omelet!

I’m on several medications. But they don’t do them all at once. Every couple of hours the nurse comes by and I get another tablet. They don’t do them all at once because there might be an interaction. But what that means is that I get awakened twice during the night to take a pill. For example, I am on 10mg of Hytrin (generic name: terazosin). They don’t have it in a 10mg size, so I get 5 two-milligram tablets, but not all at once. I get one 2mg tablet every four hours.

At 5:30 am they change the bed linens (even though I was being discharged today, they insisted that the linen had to be changed this morning). I was in ICU from Saturday evening through Monday afternoon, so Sunday and Monday mornings at 5:30 the bed was changed and I got a sponge bath, a Very Thorough sponge bath. Breakfast comes at 7:30 am, so there’s a two-hour wait. Blood draws happen in the middle of the night. My blood sugar was tested every four hours in the ICU and the blood pressure machine did its routine every fifteen minutes until Monday mid-day when the schedule was changed to once an hour. It is difficult to get more than two hours of sleep at a time. I’m so looking forward to sleeping all night with no interruptions!

I moved into a private room on Monday afternoon. This is a huge room. If I wanted, I could have been in a suite where Nina would have a bed available (at a higher price … this single room is included in the “angioplasty package”). It has a desk, a couch, two chairs, a large picture window, and a nice bathroom. But the same routine for medications and bed linen changes. The nurse was here at 5:30 to change the bed and give me a pill followed by instructions to take a shower.

At 9 am the cardiologist came in, did one last check, and signed the discharge paperwork. If there is anything to know about India is that there is paperwork for EVERYTHING, each requiring stamps from several people (It is said that the British brought bureaucracy to India and the Indians perfected it). The discharge process took a couple of hours, mostly because we kept getting different instructions as to where we needed to go.

Everything at the hospital is recorded on paper. Someone somewhere else then transfers the info into a computer. Upon discharge I got a thick file with all the test results, the EKG printouts, and CD’s with the video of the angiogram, the angioplasty, and the echocardiogram. That was a very impressive binder of information. Apparently in India, your health information belongs to you, not to the doctor or the hospital. That’s the way it should be in the US.

It’s now 2:10 pm on Tuesday, January 13th. That would be 3:40 am Tuesday morning in New York and 1:40 am in Salt Lake City. I feel great.

Now, I can finally take another look at Mumbai.

Very thankful today.

Next Stop: Mumbai (After a Brief Layover in Amsterdam)

We enjoyed our week in Ormond Beach (I’ve spelled it differently before, but I’m pretty sure this is the right spelling!) and even went to the beach once, on our last day in the area. The weather had turned cool and cloudy with significant rainfall. We seldom saw the sun while we were there. From everything I’ve read, the weather in southwest Florida is better than in the rest of the state for some reason.

Right now I’m on Delta Flight 72 from Atlanta to Amsterdam. The map says we’ve got 5 hours and 3 minutes remaining flight time. In 3 1/2 hours they wake us up and feed us a breakfast. Flight statistics:

611 MPH
77 MPH Tail Wind
-62 degrees Farenheight
33,019 feet altitude
2,859 miles to Amsterdam
1,532 miles from Atlanta

While we were in northeastern Florida we spent one day in St. Augustine, another day at the Kennedy Space Fight Center, another day and a half watching football on TV, a part of a day exploring the area around Daytona Beach, and one day at the temple followed by dinner with Nina’s first cousin once removed and her husband. It was a full week and went by in a big hurry, it seemed.

St. Augustine is the oldest, continuously occupied city in the United States … that is, if you discount and ignore the Native Americans who were there long before the Europeans arrived. The city was first settled by the Spanish as a protection to their treasure ships going from South America back to Spain. These ships would go up the Gulf Stream which made them a tasty target for pirates and others. The city, though besieged and attacked several times, never fell but changed hands four times as a result of various treaties.

We spent five hours walking through the downtown area and going through the Castillo de San Marcos (the fort). We were plenty tired by the end of the day, but felt we had had a great time. There was a lot to see and we skipped most of it. That means we’ll need to go back someday. One place we really wanted to see was the Presbyterian Church. We saw it, but it was closed due to the holidays (we were in St. Augustine on New Years Eve).

Of course, the New Years Day football games were a big deal for us as both our desired (and significantly underdog) teams prevailed with Oregon manhandling Florida State and Ohio State outlasting Alabama. We’ll be in Mumbai when the championship game is played, but Ty is a football fan and I suspect we’ll be able to watch the game somehow.

The five hours we spent at the Kennedy Space Flight Center was also not nearly enough. It was a bit nostalgic as everything was a huge reminder of the demise of our once-magnificent space program. We’ve gone from flying to the moon to being unable to put a person into space … having to pay the Russians to fly us into low earth orbit. I’ll admit I got teary-eyed during the movie showing Neal Armstrong’s climb down the ladder and stepping onto the surface of the moon back in 1968. Like most everyone else we were glued to the TV that night as the event unfolded in real time.

The Museum of Arts and Science (MOAS) in Daytona Beach was a delightful surprise. It is a county museum, so my expectations were low. The museum has about 30,000 objects in its collection with about 30% on display. The African art was amazing. The Cuban art collection donated by Cuba President Baptista (before he was deposed during the Cuban Revolution in 1959) was worth seeing and experiencing. The Coca Cola display was huge. The Daytona Beach connection to Coca Cola is that the iconic bottle was manufactured first in Daytona Beach.

The beaches in the Daytona area are where some of the first high-speed race cars were tested and raced. The sand is hard-packed and provides good traction. Ormond Beach touts itself as “The Birthplace of Speed”. On display at the museum were some race cars from the 1950’s that originated from a Daytona Beach family. There was a huge teddy bear exhibit, a couple of personal train coaches, and much more. We didn’t do the planetarium or the children’s wing as we just didn’t have time.

We went to the Orlando Temple on Saturday, January 3rd to do a session. Getting there was an adventure by itself. The GPS routed us onto a toll road (of which there are several around Orlando and across Florida). However, the entrance onto the toll road required the payment of a toll in exact change (no person at the toll booth). But, we only had 35 cents in change and there was no information posted as to the amount of the toll. We drove around and finally found a place that would change one dollar (and only one dollar) into four quarters and went back to the toll road, except this entrance had a person at the toll booth! When we exited and drove towards the Temple, we came onto a very serious accident at an intersection where we had to go a different direction. As we made our way around, we came onto another serious accident at another intersection where the power lines were all down and a huge pole had been taken out in the accident.

The Temple was very quiet and wasn’t very busy. I heard later that this was one of the most poorly attended days at the Temple in many years. It was good that we were there! Afterwards we met Kate and Michael for dinner at one of those gourmet pizza places where only the avant-gard folks find the pizza tasty. We had a great visit with them, however.

On Monday, January 5th we drove back to Ninety Six, South Carolina to get ready for the Big Mumbai Trip. The motor home is parked there. The weather has turned very cold (a low tonight of 16 degrees), so I winterized the motor home before we left. Hopefully everything will survive and nothing important freezes.

So, now I’m on this Boeing 767 airplane headed across the Atlantic Ocean. I have an aisle seat 19C and Nina is in an aisle seat a few rows further up from me. We’ve 4 hours 27 minutes left in the flight. Not enough time to get much of a sleep, but I think I’ll give it a try. After making another trip to the bathroom, that is. The flight is completely full. Several very tired and cranky babies are here, most sitting on parent’s laps which doesn’t contribute to their well being at all. THANKFULLY I’VE BOSE NOISE CANCELING HEADSET!

Life is good!!

Time to Destination: 58 minutes
Eastern Time: 1:11 am

603 mph
123 mph tailwind
-73 degrees Fahrenheit
34,997 feet altitude
396 miles to Amsterdam
3,997 miles from Atlanta

Visiting St. Augustine, Florida

New Years Eve was a chilly, windy, rainy day in Ormand Beach, Florida. We decided to drive an hour north to St. Augustine, the oldest continuously inhabited city in the US. We had a great afternoon walking through the downtown area. There is a lot to see and we barely scratched the surface. Further, there were a lot of people in downtown St. Augustine, obviously taking advantage of the holiday as we were.

I’m still working a bit with the photo gallery feature. This time, I’ve sized the pictures so that the caption should be visible without having to do so much scrolling. Maybe this works better.

The End of the Year 2014

My goodness has this been a year of change. I’ve gone from employed making well north of $100k a year to retired and $3,500 a month in Social Security. We were home owners in Pocatello, Idaho and are now “homeless” nomads currently in Ormand Beach, Florida. Nina and I used to drive two cars and be pretty much independent from each other. Now, we’re essentially car-less, renting a car when we need one, living together 24×7 in less than 200 square feet of space. It’s a very rare time when we’re not with each other.

Life is very good!

In a week we’ll be in Mumbai, India for a couple of weeks, then driving cross-country to Arizona then back to Pocatello, Idaho in February. We’ll park the motor home, give a farewell speech in Church, and leave for a 23-month mission in the Honolulu Hawaii Mission (at least initially assigned to the Visitor’s Center).

The changes aren’t over. Life is very good!! Definitely looking forward to 2015 (as soon as I remember that it is 2015 and type / write it. It took three times to get it right in this post!).

Ormand Beach, Florida

The drive from Fort Myers to Ormand Beach on Monday was, for the most part, quite uneventful … that is, except for the transit through Orlando. A bowl game was being played later that evening in Orlando and the traffic was stop-and-go for about an hour as we drove on Interstate 4 through the town. I’m sure there was a way to go around, but the TomTom didn’t figure that out. Meanwhile, Oklahoma got absolutely creamed by Clemson in the bowl game, giving Oklahoma one of the worst (but not the most worst) loss in many, many years.

We’re in a very small campground in Ormand Beach, just north of Daytona Beach. The campsite met all of our criteria:

  1. It had a spot available for the week that we were going to be here.
  2. It had cable tv (particularly including ESPN so we can watch some football).
  3. It had wifi.

The TV reception was very bad on Monday evening. This morning I talked asked the owner if there was an issue with the cable amplifiers. He immediately went over, opened a box on a telephone pole, and plugged in the amplifier that had become unplugged when they did some work on a sewer lift station. TV problem solved! We’ve got a lovely picture now and have enjoyed two bowl games this evening as Notre Dame and Georgia both won.

Today the weather was not beach weather. Cool (mid-70’s), very windy, and thick, low clouds with occasional drizzle. It’s a good thing we aren’t here to go to the beach as the highest priority. We did go to the beach, though, drove down the A1A highway, visited the Ponce de Leon Lighthouse, had lunch at TGI Friday’s (where the restaurant was empty and the service was beyond slow), and then went to the Museum of Arts and Science in Daytona Beach. The museum was excellent and I highly recommend it.

While we were at the Ponce de Leon Lighthouse. we saw a huge machine pick up a very large pleasure boat that they had just finished painting the hull and move it into position to be put back in the water. That was a very interesting process. I’d love to see the inside of some of these boats.

We’re having fun!

Some pictures from the day: